Mt. Whiteface and Mt. Passaconaway - 10/21/24
Mt. Whiteface: 4019 ft. - Mt. Passaconaway: 4043 ft - approx. 12 mi.
Trail map based on AllTrails map
My friend Dan, with whom I also hiked Mt. Flume and Mt. Liberty, texted me a few days before this hike to tell me he had the week off and to see if I was available for a weekday hike. So I called out on a Monday without hesitation. We decided on Whiteface and Passaconaway, since it was the shortest drive, and Dan hadn't done them in about a decade. Since the days are getting shorter we decided to get another very early start, since this was going to be another longish hike.
My pack laden with winter gear, I stepped out the door around 5:10am and we got to the Ferncroft Rd. parking lot shortly before 6:30. It was dark when we arrived but we could just see the first rays of the sun poking over the horizon.
From the parking lot to the actual trailhead involved walking on dirt roads, and so we didn't bother getting headlamps out because visibility was good enough an getting better quickly. It was light enough to see easily by the time we made it to the Blueberry Ledge trailhead.
The trail ascends easily with good footing through the forest for half a mile or so before it reaches a section of granite slabs. We started to see some frost on the ground here, and as we got higher up there was a dusting a snow still on the ground. We found some oyster mushrooms on a tree around this section, which was cool. I made space in my lunch bag and cut them off to bring home for a meal. They were a bit frozen, but otherwise in good shape.
Higher up, the trail started to get a bit steeper as we approached the final part of the climb. This trail is on the Terrifying 25 list, and it's all due to one particular section, which frankly is not terrifying. There's an overhanging rock section, a narrow sloped slab, and a ledge above it. You have to start under the overhang, clamber up the narrow bit far enough so you can get a hand up to the ledge, and then haul yourself up. If you were to fall, you'd either slide back under the overhang, or slide a little farther to the flat, wooded section below the ledge. We jokingly referred to it as the "death ledge" but some scrapes and bruises would be be the worst of the damage if you slipped on the climb.
I went first and scrambled up without any issues. There's a crack that runs the length of the slope and I was able to get a grip on the edge of it and then grab the ledge above and get up. Then I stood at the top and watched Dan attempt it. He had a lot more trouble and kept sliding back down under the overhang. After a couple attempts, he took off his pack and tossed it up to me, thinking it might be easier without it. Still, he couldn't get enough grip with his feet to get up the slope. I suggested he do a handjam or footjam, rock climbing moves for ascending cracks, to get better grip. He wasn't familiar with the technique (and I'm not really a climber either), but my inexpert description was good enough for him to get the bit of extra traction he needed to get a hand up to the ledge.
Above the death ledge, It was steeper, noticeably snowier, and there were more rock scrambles but nothing too crazy. At this point we were very near the summit. There's a sort of false summit with nice views, and the true summit is wooded and a bit farther into the woods.
Past the summit, the Rollins Trail follows the ridgeline between the two mountains. It descends somewhat steeply from the peak of Whiteface, but quickly levels out and was a rather nice walk towards the Dicey's Mill trail on Passaconaway. There was snow on trail for much of the way along the ridge, but it descends gradually and by the time we reached the intersection with the Dicey's Mill trail the ground was clear. There is one point on this walk where you have a narrow but clear view back towards whiteface, and it looks quite far away.
We took a short break at this point, because by now we'd already gone 7 or 8 miles, and the last .6-ish miles to the summit of Passaconaway is somewhat steep. It was shortly after noon, and the temperature was just right for things to be melting a bit and getting slippery. There were some slippery rocks on the last section below the summit, but we navigated without incident. There is a short trail that leads north from the summit of Passaconaway, and goes out to a ledge with an incredible view out past the Kancamagus Highway towards The Presidential Range. It's about 1/3rd of a mile and is well worth the trip.
After checkcing out viewpoint, we returned to the summit of Passaconaway. which is just a little open spot among some trees. We had a quick lunch here, and met another hiker with his dog, who had both done all 48 4000-footers multiple times. The dog even had the patch for it on his harness.
From there we returned down the Dicey's Mill Trail, which if anything had gottten slightly more slippery. But we made it back down to the level of the ridgeline where it was once again dry without incident. A quick pee break and then we were on the last leg of our journey.
This trail descends steadily but not steeply for maybe 2 miles at most, and then the rest of it is a long, mostly flat walk through the valley. It was actually really nice and a great end to the hike, nothing too strenuous when we were already pretty gassed. There was a new an unexpected hazard though, which was the thick layer of leaves on the trail. It obscured roots and rocks and holes and we had to walk carefully to avoid tripping. It also was shockingly loud, constantly crunching leaves underfoot. There is an easy crossing of the Wonalancet river less than a mile from the end. You could splash through if the weather was warmer, but we crossed on a fallen tree that had clearly been used by others for the same purpose. In the spring I could see this presenting a problem, if the water was a bit higher but the weather still cold.
When we reached the bottom of the Dicey's Mill trail, it was just a short road walk back past some farmhouses to the parking lot. While we stretched and packed up the car, another pair of hikers came back as well, and for some reason started tailgating in the lot. Camp chairs, cooler, small charcoal grill, the works. No idea what that was all about. We went and got food at a restaurant like civilzed folk.